Chocolate everywhere!

Like last week, I awoke this morning before my alarm went off. Everyone else in the room was still sleeping, so I quickly and quietly got ready and went downstairs. I made myself a cup of tea in the hostel kitchen and hung out for a bit. Then, at 10:00am, I headed into the Grand Place to meet up with Caron and her friend. 

They showed up a few minutes after I arrived. We decide to start our day off with the Museum of Chocolate. It was only a few euros to get in, and the ticket included a self guided tour through the museum as well as a chocolate making demonstration. We walked through the small building, looking at chocolate sculptures, learning interesting chocolate facts, reading about the history of chocolate, and viewing chocolate cups and pots used by kings and queens when the drink was first introduced to Europeans five hundred years ago. 

We then ventured downstairs, where we were given a sample of melted chocolate on a speculoos cookie. Yum! Then we were brought back for the demonstration. We were told the temperature at which chocolate is ready to work with (31-32 degrees Celsius), shown how their praline chocolates are made, and given a sample of the finished product. It was really neat, informative, and tasty :)

When the demonstration was over we walked a few blocks towards Brussels' most famous statue: Mannekin Pis. We got to the corner where it's located and all kind of went, "wait, that's it?". It was really small. A two foot tall statue of a little boy, peeing. I really don't get why it's so famous, but it's been around for hundreds of years and means a lot to the people of Brussels. It was even kidnapped by the British in 1725. Wow. 

We spent maybe a minute viewing Mannekin Pis. Then we were off to explore more of the city. 

We walked away from the Grand Place and older part of town and came to a collection of elegant, old buildings. They were situated on a hill, so we climbed up the many steps and came to a spot that was great for taking pictures of both the buildings and the city. Walking around the buildings we soon found signs that informed us that they were a part of the Royal Palace. Cool. :)

We made our way back down the stairs and back into the old town, where we visited an old church, looked around at the street market, and bought some Belgian Fries (They're not called French fries here, the Belgians created them and the French stole their glory). We took our lunch and began to walk in the direction of "zaabar chocolatiers". 

The one thing we did have planned today was a chocolate making class. It was €20 and totally worth it. When we arrived at Zaabar we "checked in" and paid, and then had a look around the shop while waiting for our 2:30pm time slot. The shop was a small, cozy place that smelled of exotic spices and displayed chocolate works of art. They had samples of every kind of chocolate they made, some of which (pepper) all of us were unwilling to try. We also received free samples of their hot chocolate while waiting. When it came time for the class to begin we all put up our hair, put on our "lovely" hair net and apron, and entered into a front room with about twenty other people. 

The man told us about the chocolate making process: from bean, to powder and butter, to chocolate. He showed us how they cool their chocolate to make it ready to handle, by pouring it on a marble countertop and stirring and folding it over until it no longer felt hot to the touch. He spoke in French and another employee translated for those of us who didn't understand. But it was still very cool. Next we divided into two groups, English speakers following the employee who had translated into another room to begin making our chocolate. 

After a quick set of directions we were good to go. There were two tables in the room and each was working on a different type of chocolate. Our table started with truffles. We each took a piece of what would be the center of the truffle and dropped it into a big bowl of melted chocolate. With one utensil we took it out and placed it in whatever topping we wanted: crispies, nuts, or meringue pieces. Then with another utensil we picked it up once more placed the truffle on the tray. 

When we'd all made five or six truffles the tables switched. Our group now worked on chocolate bars and chocolate pieces with fruit and/or nuts. When we were finished the truffles were brought back out, and we were given bags to puts ours in. We did the same with the chocolate bar and the other chocolates. All of our creations went in a bag to take home. They looked great. The place did an awesome job with the workshop and the staff was really great. It was a very fun experience!

Happy with our chocolate making efforts we walked back towards the Grand Place. It was quite a ways, but it was nice that we were able to see a different, more modern side of Brussels on the way. Once back at the main square we began searching for souvenir chocolates from the various shops. I didn't buy any, partly because I wasn't leaving until Monday, but also partly because I was a bit chocolated out. I'll make sure to purchase some to bring home tomorrow :)

We stopped by a grocery store and bought some food for dinner. The restaurants around here are so expensive and I really didn't need a full meal after all the chocolate sampling if done. With just chocolate and fries all day, the apple I bought tasted wonderful.

By then it was already dark. We'd done and seen a lot and were all pretty tired. Caron bought a waffle (she hadn't tried one yet) and then we parted ways. They went back to there hostel, while I walked around the Grand Place a little longer. The buildings in the square were lit up like last night, but tonight the colors kept changing. The tree that had been in the center yesterday was no longer bare: though not lit, it was decorated with large silvery-blue ornaments that sparkled with the lights from the buildings . I can definitely see why it's called the most beautiful square in Europe.

By 8:00pm I was ready to call it a night. I went back to the hostel to relax and do some research for tomorrow. I'm not sure what I'm doing yet. I have ideas, but no plans. We'll see... :)

Waffles and Chocolate

Brussels was never a top travel destination for me. In fact, the city wasn't even on my radar until Caron mentioned that she and a friend were making a trip there and wondered if I wanted to come along. Airfare was a mere €40 round trip, and I couldn't pass up a deal like that. So I bought my tickets, booked a hostel, and started researching.

The internet doesn't seem to like Brussels very much. The reviews and blogs I read suggested choosing a different Belgian city, Antwerp or Bruges perhaps. There were a few fans out there who talked of the chocolates, the "frites", and the Grand Place Square...but even these said that there really wasn't that much to do there. I guess that should be expected from a town whose biggest attraction is a two foot tall statue of a peeing boy...

So it was with low expectations that I woke up Friday morning and made my way to the bus stop. I was early-my flight wasn't until 1:45pm-but I didn't feel like hanging around the house doing nothing any longer. The bus and metro seemed to be running quicker and more efficiently than usual. I made it to the airport in record time. There was nobody in line at security (something I've never experienced. I just walked right through, it was so weird!) so I ended up getting to my gate two hours before take off. An hour later I found out my flight was delayed another forty five minutes. We waited at the gate for the longest time, until finally they made an announcement saying the gate had been changed. Ugh. So after walking ten minutes to the other gate, more waiting in line, and having someone take my seat on the plane, we finally took off. 

I had told Caron that I'd wait for her at the airport. She was supposed to get there forty minutes after me. But with the delay we got in nearly an hour later, despite the small airport, Caron was nowhere to be found. There was no wifi to contact each other, so I went ahead and got on the shuttle that would take me into the city, hoping we'd be able to communicate once we were both at our hostels.

It was 7pm when the shuttle stopped in front in the train station. I found the tram I needed to take to the hostel and got off on the right stop. From there I walked a few minutes to the hostel. 

I was tired. I had a major headache, and I was already nervous about having had to navigate through a new city in the dark. So when they told me I had to pay in cash, I was upset. Nowhere on the website had it said that credit cards were only allowed for payments over €100. I complained, but was pointed in the direction if a cash machine. The machine wouldn't accept my card. It was only when I went back and told them this that they allowed me to pay by credit card. Dumb.

As if that wasn't frustrating enough, I didn't realize I was checking in at one building and staying in another. The building that I'd be staying in was a ten minute walk from the check in one. Frustrated, I took the room keys and a map and started walking. So far, Brussels was not my friend.

Then I came to the street where my hostel was located. I was suddenly in the "old town", where beautiful buildings lined small, pedestrian streets. People were everywhere. Every other store was a chocolate shop, and every window was decorated for Christmas. I dropped my bag off at my room and went back out to explore, no longer feeling as exhausted or frustrated. Thirty seconds from my hostel is the amazing Grand Place, a giant square with absolutely gorgeous buildings. It was so cool to see them all lit up, with people milling about the square, taking pictures, and eating waffles or fries. The negative feelings I'd felt at the beginning of my time here quickly dissolved. Brussels is beautiful.

There were so many people about that I felt completely fine taking a stroll through the square and the many old streets surrounding it. I hadn't eaten since lunch, so I bought a traditional Belgian waffle for dinner. They have lots of options for toppings: whipped cream, chocolate, strawberries, nuts, bananas, and more. But I got the classic: a freshly made waffle sprinkled with a bit if powdered sugar. Wow. I'm pretty sure Belgians laugh at our sorry excuses for waffles. This was almost caramelized on the outside, with a hot, fluffy inside that tasted much more like a doughnut or cinnamon roll than what I've know to be a waffle. It was THE BEST. SO good!

When I'd finished the waffle (which didn't take long, considering its size and it's deliciousness) I was about ready to head back to the hostel. But first I wanted to try some of the famous Belgian chocolates. It was difficult to choose a place; I bet I saw 20 different shops tonight! Eventually I went into "Elisabeth's Chocolatiers" and got just two pieces to try. Milk chocolate filled with caramel, and a coconut milk chocolate truffle. They came in an adorable little box that didn't stay closed for long. Both were very good, but the truffle was heavenly! I'll have to go back so I can bring some home. Then again, they might not last that long :)

As I walked I caught glimpses of statues, fountains, churches, and other buildings that I'll have to check out tomorrow. I'm meeting Caron in the morning and we'll see where we go from there. We didn't plan a lot for this trip, but sometimes that makes the experience even better. I had a wonderful end to my first night here (even with a not so wonderful start) and I'm excited to see what the rest of the weekend holds :)

When In Rome... Part 2

I woke up at 7:00am and was just a few minutes late for our 7:30am meeting. After we had everyone (one of us kind of forgot to wake up, and we had to go and get her...) we stopped by the cafe next to our hostel for a quick breakfast (cappuccino and croissant) and walked to Termini station.

Our Hop on, hop off bus was only for Saturday, so we took the metro from Termini to the Colosseum. It brought us right to the monument (not a mile away like the bus). We got in line and only had a few minutes wait before the gates were opened and we were able to go inside.

I don't know about you, but when I think Rome I think Vatican and Colosseum. So naturally those were two of the coolest things for me. The Colosseum is amazing for so many reasons. It's still standing after two thousand years. People built it, without modern machines or technology. Its crazy to think how awesome it must've looked back then.

The inside is like any modern sports arena. A hallway that circles all the way around the building, multiple levels for viewing, and a place in the middle where the event takes place. Very similar. Though instead of locker rooms, they had cages...

We walked around the first level first, taking lots of pictures. When we'd made it all the way around we went up to the second level, where there was better viewing and an exhibit with artifacts found at the site. My inner history nerd was kind of freaking out at this point. All of the information provided was great; from history of the building to games played by the spectators to various events held. Things like, "During lunch, executions would take place..." really give a reminder of the terrible things that happened here and the fact that the Romans actually enjoyed their "sport". Real life hunger games right here.

Content with what we'd seen at the Colosseum we walked across the way to the entrance of the Roman Forum and Palatino. Both entrances were included in our Colosseum ticket. The Forum was so neat! It was basically a huge area of Ancient Rome that had been preserved. We walked past temples, tombs, and other buildings and portions of buildings. Each one had an information sign out front and I learned a lot.

We finished there around 10:30 and the group and I parted ways. They were off to do some souvenir shopping and then get to the airport to catch their 2pm flight. I set off walking towards to Vatican to stand in the inevitably long line for St. Peter's Basilica.

Rome was a great city to walk around in. I didn't get lost once, and unlike the previous evening the weather was bright and sunny. I got to St. Peter's Square at 11:15 and got in line. The line wrapped all the way around the square, but I was prepared to wait. Over the next half hour the number of people in the square increased exponentially. Only when I saw flags and banners, and everyone facing one direction as if waiting for something did I realize that it was Sunday and the Pope was probably in, which meant he would stand at his balcony and say a blessing at noon. I'd read that tidbit of info prior to my trip, but forgot about it until then. 

Sure enough, at 12:00 the crowd erupted into cheers and applause. Way far away on his balcony stood Pope Francis. I got a glimpse of him before the line pushed me further to where I couldn't see. But I didn't want to waste 45 minutes in line, so I stayed put and listened as I watched him on the huge screens they had set up. How cool though, to be that close to the Pope?!

He talked for ten minutes, part of which sounded like a prayer or blessing. Too bad I can't understand Italian. It was just a few minutes after he was finished that I reached the front of the line, went through the metal detectors, and walked up the steps through the giant doors and into the building.

I think of the cathedrals I've been in that have left me speechless. Barcelona and Toledo stand out in my memory. St. Peter's was even more so. It was jaw dropping. So huge, and so beautiful. The gold in the designs, the many statues, the huge pillars, the giant dome... wow. Even though it was full of people, the place was quiet except for the sound of mass going on in one roped off area in the corner. I walked around for a long time, looking at the art, praying, taking it in, thinking about the history of the place. This city, it's significance to the Christian church, is huge. St. Paul wrote to the believers in Rome and longed to go there, and he eventually did. St. Peter was crucified there. Many other apostles came to the ancient city at some point in time. The early Church faced persecution under multiple Roman Emperors. Christians were killed in the Colosseum simply for believing what they did. And yet, after all of that, it became the headquarters of the church, and the city from which Christianity spread. And here I was, standing in that city. It was one of those amazing, "oh my gosh, I'm really here" moments.

Under the basilica lies the burial place of some of the previous Popes. I toured the area and got to see the tomb of Pope John Paul II and the tomb of St. Peter. I then went and bought a ticket to go to the top of the dome. You could buy an elevator ticket for two euros extra or choose to take the stairs. I chose stairs. 327 steps later, I was standing looking down to the church below. Again, I was amazed at how big the basilica really was. I walked around the circular dome and then left the room, expecting to head back down. But wait, there's more! I was surprised to continue the ascent. The stairway became narrow and the walls slanted. My leg muscles were burning by the time I reached the real top. But it was worth it. People who'd made it all the way up were treated to amazing views of the Vatican and Rome. I took pictures while enjoying the cool breeze, a welcome change from the hot stuffy stairwell. Then after a few minutes I worked up the energy climb back down.

The entire Basilica visit was awesome, but took a lot longer than I had expected. It was 2:00 when I left and since I hadn't rated much for breakfast (and since breakfast was at 7:45am) I was starving. I walked towards the center of the city, down side streets and piazzas. I came across a crowded take away place selling sandwiches. I got the mozzarella and tomato. It was a huge sandwich made with fresh, fluffy focaccia bread, tomato, and slices of the best mozzarella I've ever had. It was delicious, and I was SO full afterwards. Best part? It was only 3 euros!

I ate it while walking around Campo di Fiori and looking at the items for sale at the outdoor market. They had some great looking stuff: pastas, fruits, spices, and more. When I'd finished my "pizza" I continued my walk, again taking the smaller streets and ending up in Piazza Navona, a large open square with restaurants all around and a beautiful fountain in the middle. Near the piazza I found an authentic looking gelato shop. Neither of the gelatos I'd eaten yesterday were amazing, and I was hoping to find something that beat San Sebastián before I left. I got a cone with three flavors (you pay by size here, not flavor, so you can get as many as you want!) that ended up being my new favorite flavor combo: Hazelnut, chocolate, and pistachio. It was the real deal. I'd found the amazingly delicious Italian gelato I had dreamed of. And though I felt as though I might burst after finishing it, it was worth it :).

Full of gelato and exhausted, I found it much more difficult to walk from that point on. Moving more slowly I again passed the Trevi Fountain. A few minutes later I came again to the Pantheon. We hadn't gone inside on Saturday so I decided to have a look. It was one big, round building with art and statues on each section of wall. At the front was a sort of chapel, with an alter and crucifix and benches. I made my way around the building and then headed back out into the now rainy evening.

Like the previous day, Rome decided to reserve the "100% chance of rain"  for 5pm onward. It poured. I ran from souvenir shop to souvenir shop trying to stay dry, which was impossible even with an umbrella. I bought a few souvenirs and looked in a couple really cute wood carving shops. At 5:30 I found the metro and took it back to Termini Station. It had been a long day.

I got back to the hostel before 6:00pm and collapsed on the bed. My legs were so tired, my feet so sore, and my stomach so full that I was pretty content to stay right there for the rest if the night. I checked Facebook and followed the game on Twitter while looking at pictures and enjoying the down time. At 8:30 the incredibly stuffed feeling had passed and I was actually feeling a bit hungry. Plus, this was my last chance for Italian food. So I crossed the street to a tiny pasta place called "Mama Angela's".

I sat down and ordered the first thing on the menu, "Spaghetti cacio e pepe". It was just noodles with cheese and pepper, but it was so good! Better than the ravioli or any of the other dishes I had sampled the night before. It was the kind of meal you eat slowly, so you can enjoy every bite. When I'd finished I ordered Tiramisu for dessert. It was the best I've ever had, which actually isn't saying much because I don't think I've ever had tiramisu before. But it was very good. By the time I'd finished everything it was almost ten. I set my alarm for early, made sure I was pretty much packed, and fell asleep.

I woke up the next morning before my alarm, which was strange. I'd planned to get up at 6am, check out, and get to the bus stop by 7am. Since I was early waking up I made the 6:30 bus, and was at the airport and through security less than an hour and a half later. 

Ciampino is a very small airport that caters to the budget airlines of Europe, mostly Ryanair. There weren't a lot of options for breakfast, so my breakfast ended up being a chocolate cannoli. Not a great morning meal, but really yummy, and plus...when in Rome! :)

My flight back to Madrid left on time at 9:25. I was sad to leave. I could have easily spent a couple of weeks there. The architecture, history, and food was all more than I had hoped for. It was wonderful to travel with friends for part of the trip. I had a lot of fun hanging out with them, taking pictures, and exploring the city. At the same time, it was also a great place for solo travel. I felt totally okay walking around the streets by myself. If I had to choose a city in Europe to come back to, this would definitely be a top choice. It would be difficult to pick between London and Rome, they're both amazing cities with so much that I still haven't seen. Either way, I love Rome, and I really hope I can make it back someday.