Castles, Oceans, Cliffs, and Rainbows

Before I came to Ireland, I had a couple different people tell me that they didn't really like Dublin. (My host Mom's words were: "You're going to Dublin? That's like, a sin!"). I was slightly annoyed, because when someone tells you they've planned a trip somewhere the last thing you should do is tell them they're going to a terribly boring place. I didn't want to have negative thoughts floating around in my head before I even got the chance to experience the city myself. 

I saw what they meant though. If you're expecting some glamorous, huge, European city, you'll be disappointed. All I needed was a day and a half to see all the sights I wanted to see, experience different eateries and pubs, and spend time walking down Grafton Street or along the river. That didn't make it bad, I enjoyed Dublin. But by Sunday I was quite ready to get out of the city and see just a bit of the Irish countryside.

I had booked with a well-reviewed company called Paddywagon Tours. I met the tour bus at 8am at the tourist office, just a few minutes walk from my hostel. There were fifty people on our bus, so every seat was full. Unfortunately, I didn't get a window seat. But I still got a few good pics while we were traveling.

Our tour guide was witty and full of energy. While we drove he told us about various parts of Irish language, history, and culture. It was all very fascinating. We learned a few Irish words as well. "Craic" (pronounced crack" means fun. He said it's perfectly normal for someone to go up to an Irish policeman and ask them where to find some Craic. They'll point the person on the direction of a good party or pub. He also told us that some Irish people on "holiday" have told the same thing to security guards at U.S. airports when the guard asks why they've come to the U.S. "Just lookin to have some craic!" That can get them into some trouble...

As we made our way from Dublin I was surprised how suddenly the city disappeared. Old buildings were quickly replaced by a highway lined with small colorful trees, and fields that were dotted every now and then with houses, farms, and cows. It was about an hour later that the landscape began to change to hills of bright green, classic Ireland. Between rain showers we could see the occasional rainbow. Irish music played in the background. I couldn't stop smiling :)

1. 

Approximately two hours after we'd set out, our tour took its first stop: a small town by the name of Kinvarra. Kinvarra is a fishing village on an inlet of Galway Bay. We took a quick bathroom break and were able to walk down to the harbor. It was all very quaint, with the small boats and colorful shops and a Castle across the water. Twenty minutes after we'd stopped we were back on the bus and once again on our way. 

We drove another half an hour to a place called Concomroe Abbey. As we drove the narrow road up the hill our guide told us about the old Irish people's belief in fairies. They believed that fairies were tricky, nasty creatures, and they feared their magic. They also believed that if the people left the fairies alone the fairies would do the same for the people. There were certain spots in Ireland known as "fairy forts", that the Irish people wouldn't go near, for fear of upsetting a fairy. A thousand years ago, fearing the Irish were falling away from Christianity, the church decided to build an Abbey. They purposefully built it near a few different fairy forts, and built the road leading to the Abbey through those fairy forts to prove to the people that fairies did not exist. Strangely, the Abbey was never finished. Due to fires, floods, and plague it was never completed and remains so to this day. It was great to hear the story behind the building before we got out to have a look around. The building has turned into a grave yard, so there are now old gravestones everywhere. We had about five minutes there before our visit was cut short by a torrential downpour. Everyone ran for the bus and we continued on.

Next we drove through an area known as "The Burren". It's rocky and barren, and very unlike the endless green we'd all seen on the way there. As we drove we made our way along Galway Bay, and could see the city of Galway across the water. When we reached the end of the bay we were able to get out and walk around near what's known as the "baby cliffs". Though not nearly as high as the Cliffs of Moher, they were still impressive. Here was where we got our first view of the Atlantic Ocean. The wind was blowing like crazy, but the precip was better. It only sprinkled a bit near the end of our stop and picked up again once we were back on the bus.

It was 1:00. We drove to a small fishing Village called "Doolin" and stopped for lunch. I ordered seafood chowder with soda bread. I shouldn't even have to tell you how it was, because you already know that all Irish food is amazing :) but seriously, huge fresh pieces of fish and crab in delicious chowder eaten with thick, fluffy soda bread that was still warm... So. Good. Aaand it was only 5 euros!

We had forty five minutes for lunch, so afterwards I walked down the only street the town had. There was a souvenir shop that had some cute things, but was pretty expensive. I looked around awhile before walking back towards the bus around 1:40.

Our next stop was the Cliffs of Moher. We drove up a steep, narrow road surrounded by green pastures and farmland. I'd heard there was a visitors center and shops, so I was expecting it to look a bit commercialized. But when we pulled into the parking lot all I could see was the trail leading up to the different lookout points. It took me a minute to realize that the buildings were built into one of the cliffs! Brilliant. Props to whoever's idea that was!

I walked up the trail to the first viewpoint. That first look at the cliffs is such a jaw dropping moment. I'd seen pictures online, but there's just something about natural wonders THAT huge that can't be captured in a photograph.

There are two directions you can choose once you get to that first viewpoint: left or right. I went right first and continued to walk up higher and higher, pausing every so often to take pictures. The wind was ferocious. I got some fantastic pictures of my hair in my face. And it was SO cold. But the view kept getting better and better. And it wasn't raining.

I soon reached a structure known as O'Brien's Tower. It overlooks the Cliffs and was fun to take pictures of. Once I'd reached the tower I turned around and walked up the path I hadn't taken yet. This one went towards the cliffs. As I was walking it started sprinkling, and I was nervous I'd have to head inside before I'd walked both parts of the trail.

The sprinkling stopped as I reached the first part of the cliffs. Here I was able to take pictures of O'Brien's Tower from afar. I sat down on the green grass and popped in my headphones. Listening to my favorite Irish guys' rendition of "10,000 Reasons", I tried my best to take in the awesome view as a rainbow appeared directly in front of me. It was incredible. God is such an amazing artist.

I spent an hour out on the Cliffs. We had an allotted time of an hour and a half, so I decided to check out the visitors center to warm up a bit (it was so cold!) I bought some hot tea and looked around the gift shop until it was time to get back on the bus.

There was only one more stop on our tour: Bunratty Castle. We stopped for just a few minutes in the small town of the same name and were able to take a few pictures. It didn't really look like a castle to me, more like a large tower. But it was still neat to see. 

From Bunratty it was a two and a half hour drive back to Dublin. Our guide gave us a few more fun facts, sang us an Irish song, and then (when no one else volunteered to sing) turned the Irish music back on. The weather continued to be temperamental, but we got quite a bit more sun than we'd had on the drive over. Since we were making a big loop through central Ireland, the drive back brought different (and I think, more beautiful) scenery. This time there was more green, and bigger hills, and trees, and rivers. As sad as I was that our tour was done, I couldn't help but enjoy the music and scenery as I thought about all the things I'd seen. It had been a wondrous day.

We arrived back in Dublin at 8:00pm. I went for a quick dinner before heading back to my hostel. Remember my fish and chips in London? Well, despite the negative experience I decided to try again. Fish, and chips, and mushy peas from a small place in Temple bar. The verdict? I like fish and chips! I do, I like them Sam I am! I don't know if I just went to a bad place while in London, but these were done right.

After some last minute souvenir shopping I went and picked up my bag from the hostel and caught the bus to the airport. There was one cafe/bar still open (it was 10pm) so I ordered an Irish coffee and sat drinking it at a nearby table. It was good, though I definitely hadn't expected THAT much whiskey...

When I finished I found a computer station to charge my nearly dead phone. Once it was charged I went and sat in a comfy armchair at a closed cafe upstairs. That's where I am now. I still have five hours until my flight leaves, but I'll be able to pass the time reading, reviewing the hundreds of pictures I took this weekend, and thinking about my trip. For a weekend trip, I really did see a ton of stuff. Seeing all that I did today made me wish I had a few more days to travel to places like Blarney Castle, the Ring of Kerry, and Connemara. I leave a piece of my heart here in Ireland. There's something about this tiny country that is so unique, so special. And I will definitely be back.