Monday, December 1, 2014

"Raindrops on Roses and Whiskers on Kittens"... Salzburg, Austria

I woke up early on Sunday and headed straight for the train station. I bought a one day "Bavaria" ticket, which would take me anywhere in Bavaria or to Salzburg on a regional train, and went to find the right platform. At 8:54am I boarded the train to Salzburg. 

The ride was two hours, but it was a pleasant two hours. The train wasn't very crowded and the view out the window was nice despite the light fog. At 11am the train arrived in Salzburg central station. I picked up a map at the tourist office, exited the station, and started walking.

The map wasn't very helpful. It was all in German which made it difficult to find the places I wanted to see. But I got the general idea of where to go to get to the center of the city from the station. Ten minutes of walking brought me to my first stop: Mirabel Palace and Gardens. 




I walked around the outside of the palace to the gardens. They were nice, though I'm sure they're beautiful in the Spring and Summer. After all, Winter isn't really a great time to visit gardens. There were statues everywhere of unicorns and lions and people in various poses. Though it was freezing there were still plenty of flowers throughout the area. I went from one end to the other on the paths weaving in between the plants and flowers. Part of the "Do, re, mi" scene in the Sound if Music was shot here, so it was neat to walk through.


Once I'd seen the gardens I walked towards the bridge to go to the town hall, older buildings, and main Christmas market on the other side of the river. I walked across the bridge and looked out at the city spread on both sides of the water. Salzburg is really beautiful. On the other side of the river I walked through an arch way and found myself wandering through small, pedestrian streets lined with shops and restaurants. I passed by Mozart's birthplace as well as a couple of small food markets before finally finding the Salzburg Christkindl Market. 




Set in a square surrounded by beautiful buildings and decorated with garlands and stars and lights, the market looked amazing. I walked from stall to stall as choral Christmas music played, looking at all of the ornaments, decorations, toys, carving, and food for sale. The pretzels here looked way better than any if the pretzels I'd seen in Germany. I hadn't had breakfast, so I bought one to eat while I continued to explore the market.


















I spent about a half an hour there, but I wanted to see more of Salzburg, not just the Christmas markets. Without a helpful map or guide, I decided to head towards the giant fortress that sits atop one of the hills. When I arrived at the base at the hill there was the option to buy a tram ticket to ride up, or to walk. Always up for a good hike, I decided to walk.


It took awhile, and was quite tiring, but the views along the way were well worth it. Once at the top I bought a ticket to go inside the fortress. I looked around and took pictures of the city down below. There was a small market going on up there (they're everywhere!) so I took a quick look around that before heading back down the hill. 















I took a different route down and ended up at Nonnburg Abbey, the convent where the actual Maria lived before going to teach the Von Trapp children. I walked around the outside but wasn't allowed inside the main doors. So I made my way back down the hill to a main street.






I was cold, I was tired of walking, and I wasn't sure where to go or what to see next. I stopped walking at a bus stop to look at a city map and realized it was a stop for the Salzburg "Hop on Hop off" bus tour. My last Hop on Hop off bus hadn't worked out real well (Rome) but this one was only €15 and a way around the city, so I decided to give it a try. 

It was well worth it. Not at all crowded, warm, comfy seats, and the choice to listen through headphones to the "Salzburg city tour" or the "Sound of Music tour". I chose Sound of Music, and as we drove I listened to facts about the real Von Trapp family, movie filming locations, and how the book became a musical became a movie. The first few stops were places I'd already walked by or to. But further on we stopped at various filming locations used for the Von Trapp house and the different musical scenes, including Leopoldskron Palace, Frohnburg Palace, Mozart footbridge, the Horse Bath, and the Festival Halls.





The last stop was Hellbrunn Palace, whose gardens were used in the movie. A Christmas market was going on there (like I said, they're everywhere!), and I walked through it on my way to see the Sound of Music Pavillion. It was smaller than I remember it being in the movie...




The bus stopped near the main market in the center of town and I decided to get off and walk the rest of the way. It was now 4:30pm and dark out. I came across another part of the market I hadn't seen before, complete with Christmas tree and ice rink. I bought a few souvenirs and then made my way back towards the train station.




Stopping outside Mirabel Gardens at a Christmas Market I hadn't seen earlier I ordered a gluwein to warm up before my final ten minute trek to the station. It was better than the gluwein in Munich, not as syrupy sweet. When I arrived at the station I saw that the train to Munuch was leaving in twenty minutes from platform three. I went to the platform to find a seat and wait.



It was cold, and I was tired and ready to get on the train. But the train wasn't there. Another train had pulled in and wasn't leaving, and the one to Munich was supposed to leave in two minutes. I realized then that it was quite possible that I'd been waiting at the wrong end of the platform. I ran to the other end. I'd been right... and about twenty seconds too late. I watched the doors close as I approached them, and then I watched the train move slowly out of the station. The next train didn't leave for another hour.

I was so mad at myself. Why couldn't I have used my common sense a minute sooner and made that train?! I went back into the station to get out of the cold and paced back and forth down the long walkway. I was so tired and just wanted to be on the train in a comfy seat headed towards my comfy hostel bed. But then I thought of raindrops on roses and whiskers on kittens, and simply remembered my favorite things. And then I didn't feel so bad. In fact, I laughed at myself. Sure I had to wait another hour, but I would make it back eventually. And I'd had an awesome day in Austria. I'd been on a lot of trains and planes in the last few months. To only miss one is pretty darn good :)

I was on the next train as soon as it pulled into the station. I got back to Munich around 9:00pm and walked five minutes to my hostel. I was ready to sleep, but I had told my roommates I'd be in Salzburg for the day and they wanted to hear all about it. In return I got to hear all about their misadventure to the middle of nowhere, which made me feel like I'd done a pretty good job with my day after all. 

Monday morning I gathered up my things and checked out of the hostel. My tiny backpack was as full as it could be as I walked to the tram and got on the S8 towards the airport. Security was quick. I bought breakfast and found my gate, and got really excited when I found out Lufthansa offers free coffee/tea/cocoa to its passengers. My plane left Munich just before noon.

It was a really great weekend. I loved both Munich and Salzburg for their markets, architecture, history, and people. But I didn't have nearly enough time in either city. There was so much that I didn't get to see! Oh well, I guess I'll just have to come back! ;)

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